7 to 8 inch wide, deep scarlet red flowers have heavily overlapping petals, start as near-black buds. Blossoms cover the full, compact plant from midsummer to early fall. Set against a backdrop of glossy deep green, leathery, maple-like leaves with slight purple overtones, the flowers are produced at the nodes all up the flowering stems rather than just at the top like some other cultivars.

Plant the hibiscus crown at or just below soil level in a moist, well-drained, sunny location. Keeping these plants watered will result in larger flowers and lush foliage. Do not over-water dormant plants, but after dormancy is broken, do not let plants wilt. Provided with organic soil (or a fertilizer application in the spring) and plenty of water. Fertilizer should not be used after June to ensure that the hibiscus flower production is not impeded by excess nitrogen. To encourage branching, pinch plants back when new shoots are 2 inches long. Do not pinch all the way back to the hardwood portion of the stem.

Hardy hibiscus begins blooming in mid-summer and will often continue producing flowers until frost. One hibiscus plant can produce hundreds of flowers, especially with deadheading to prolong the bloom period. Attracts hummingbirds and deer resistant.

It is best to plant Hibiscus in the garden before the heat of the summer arrives. Hibiscus should be heavily mulched the first winter. In spring, cut back any remaining stems before new growth appears.

Hibiscus can be used in the garden as focal point, as a border or arranged to provide an informal hedge. Some perennial hibiscus plants are compact and some habits are taller. Perennial Hibiscus plants have no severe pest or disease problems.